Conde Naste, September 29th, 2005
When a kitchen insists on using homegrown ingredients on every plate, the results can be limited. Not so at the Arbutus Grille... This part of the world is fertile ground for all manner of flavours, which are effectively teased out in Dungeness crab roulade, Cowichan duckling, and sockeye salmon grilled over hot coals of the arbutus tree, the eponymous, and rare, specimen that populates the Lodge grounds. The real surprise is that the wines - many from British Columbia - stand up to the regional flavors...the "petulance" of the island's own Kerner or the Okanagan Gewurtraminer's finish 'like fresh rain on hot stones'.